Gorillas, giraffes, turkeys and Burns Night, Ugandan-style

Tanzania, Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda all in about a week! But the good news is we’re heading back to Uganda and Kenya for a bit more time to experience and explore.

After 2 weeks of exploring Tanzania, we had the grand finale of the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater, and I don’t think they disappointed. Wildebeest and zebra en-masse, with predators not far behind – a leopard and even lions up a tree.

From there we had a brief stop in Nairobi, where some were brave (?) enough to kiss a giraffe – what were you thinking Martin?

Our first visit to Kenya was brief as we had to be in Rwanda for a date (literally) to see the gorillas. So from Kenya we headed north across the equator, and west to Kampala for another city stop, and then south-west, crossing the equator again, towards Rwanda. Some long drives, but with fantastic scenery. We based ourselves in Musanze (Ruhengeri) for a couple of nights for our appointment with the gorillas. It really is a mystical area, with volcanic mountains looming in the background. And it was on these mountains that we went trekking to observe the Mountain Gorillas.  These great apes are only found in this area, and the most recent census indicates that there are close to 800 of them. Their population is shared between Uganda, the DRC and Rwanda. In Rwanda, there are 10 different habituated groups that get visited by tourists, and between us we saw 3 of the groups. We all have different stories as to how far we did or didn’t trek, how steep the slope was, how many babies, silverbacks, blackbacks, and how many times we got charged – and whether the movie clip you get shown back home is really ours (or was it bought from Rogan?!). But it is a very special experience to be able to be so close to and observe these creatures that have such human-like characteristics and facial expressions, are so powerful, and yet gentle too.

 

  

And from the contrast and peace of that, to the pain and sadness of Rwanda’s history. We were privileged to listen to the account of a Rwandan and learn a bit more about the country’s past, prior to visiting the Genocide Memorial. I don’t think it is something that I can write about, but it is an eye-opener and shocking reminder of the insanity and destruction we as humans are capable of. 

But, Rwanda is definitely back on the map. I think Kigali and Rwanda as a whole must be one of the cleanest places in Africa. They have a ban on plastic bags, using brown paper bags instead and it is one of the few places you don’t see strewn with litter. The city seems to operate on motorbike taxis (boda-bodas) as the preferred public transport, so we decided to give it a try on our night out in town. That was just the beginning of a great night at an Indian restaurant that Rogan had discovered on a previous trip – it even had a basketball hoop on site which just capped the evening. We didn’t leave the restaurant until everyone managed a hoop.

Also in ‘One Love’ campsite in Kigali: a rather aggressive turkey. Close encounters with several people, but I think this picture of Martin shows who came off best...

We are currently back in Uganda on the shores of Lake Bunyonyi. It was time again to give Athena a bit of love, so we had a ‘work party’ and all got stuck in giving her a good scrub.

This overlanding thing isn't all hard work though...

And finally, our Scottish representative Dianne had let it be known that 25 January is Burns Night. So there has been a bit of planning and scheming over the past few weeks to organise our Burns Night in Uganda. Kath decided to combine her birthday celebrations with this occasion and organised canapés to start with, and whiskey and shortbread to cap the night off with. We participated in Highland Games on the lawn, which included shotput, tossing the cabre, egg-and-spoon races and a tug of war. And then there was the haggis which Di made. And of course The Poem (to the haggis). You really had to be there – though these pics should give you an idea. Loads of fun, something different, thanks for all the organisation Di and Kath!