Hot air balloons, feluccas, souqs and feasts in Egypt

A couple of days in Aswan saw most of the group visiting Abu Simbel, half way back down Lake Nasser, but by road this time. Some also saw the Philae Temple and the High Dam, and the Nubian Museum. Most of us experienced the souq – to a greater or lesser degree. While the Egyptians are very hospitable and are forever offering cups of tea or kakadeh (hibiscus tea), I think they give the most hassle of any of the places we’ve been. Everything is negotiable, looking is free, ‘no hassle’ is advertised, but surely when you start a sentence with ‘no hassle, I promise,’ it’s already begun? There are a lot of quirky sales pitches like ‘I don’t know what you want but whatever you need I have it’, but there are also the cheesy/sleezy pick-up lines and they never seem to give up or take no for an answer. Nonetheless, there have been some successful purchases in the souqs – silver, papyrus, new T-shirts.

For us overlanders staying in the more budget-end of accommodation, it is sometimes nice to see how other people do Egypt. The recently refurbished Cataract Hotel, featured in Agatha Christie’s ‘Death on the Nile’ provided some the opportunity to be transported to a different world for an afternoon or evening. Massive chandeliers, low lighting, canapés and sangria, good service and a wonderful view of the Nile. That doesn’t quite do it justice, but I’m sure you can imagine.

Next up was a day and a night on a felucca sailing slowly down the Nile during the day, and sleeping on deck at night. You have to forget about time, and just chill – play cards (or learn to play backgammon), listen to music, read, swim, have a couple of beers, and get served delicious Egyptian food by the crew. It was a new for Odyssey this year but I think a highlight, and definitely to be repeated when we come back! That took us in the direction of Luxor – though only a few km’s out of Aswan in reality.

From there we made a stop at Edfu temple before arriving, pretty hungry, in Luxor.  Another souq, more hassle, but once you get past that, heaps to do. Formerly called Thebes, this area is rich in history. Karnak and Luxor Temples and various museums are on the east bank, while the west bank is where the Valleys of the Kings, Queens, Nobles and Workers are – tombs and burial chambers of the Pharoahs, among others. Visiting these ancient tombs and chambers that are carved into the mountain, some with long passages, it is amazing (and sometimes questionable) that some of the painting and engravings are so well preserved, still with bright colours – 3500 years down the line.  And  archaeologists are still discovering and uncovering more.

Egypt seems to be the cheapest place in the world for hot-air balloon trips – you can get in a hot air balloon for about 40$. Mike, Jane, Jen, Pete and Kath were wise enough to go at the first opportunity they had, and it didn’t disappoint, but this morning saw 13 of us up at 5am for a balloon ride but unfortunately it was too windy to fly. Enshallah, tomorrow – though that means another early start!

We’ve also had some fun and interesting nights out in Egypt. There was a visit to a Nubian village across the river in Aswan. A relaxing afternoon-evening, with a boat trip up past Elephantine Island and the first cataract to a village on the west bank. Again, delicious Nubian food and warm hosts.

Then there was the belly-dancing bar/brothel in Luxor. Most of the Egyptian women we have seen thus far are covered from head to toe, not much of their body exposed, so it’s a completely different side at such a bar, where the women aren’t wearing much. Afraid I wasn’t there so you’ll have to hear the stories and see the pics from those went.

We’ve also found an expat-side of Luxor, with a variety of restaurants offering international cuisine. While it’s good to embrace the culture and eat locally, I think 19 weeks down the line, many people welcomed pub food last night – and the happy hour cocktails...

We are missing (in all meanings of the word) Athena who is still busy crossing Lake Nasser. There were delays for her barge departing Wadi Halfa as it was still full of cargo from the inbound journey, and then once it was ready to sail there have apparently been strong head winds and bad visibility causing very slow going.  Enshallah she arrives today in Egypt and her and Rogan catch up with us in Luxor for our final stint in the western desert, otherwise we’ll be doing it with a bus not a truck – taking us back to our ‘Bearing days’  in South Africa.

PS - The group has now all been reunited in Cairo for their last day together on their epic journey from Cape Town to Cairo.