Odyssey farewells Africa (for now)

And here we have the final updates from Rogan and Alison after their epic Cape Town to Cairo journey.  We (Pete and Kirsten) would like to say a huge thank you to both of them for everything they have done to make this another great Odyssey Overland expedition.

Farewell from Al...

You may by now have gathered that Athena didn’t make it in time to come with us to the Western Desert, which unfortunately meant Rogan couldn’t come either, and so we had to make do with a mini-bus for 4 days. Furthermore, we went the long way round as a section of road was rumoured to be closed. This meant we didn’t make our planned destination for the first night, and ended up staying in Kharga Oasis – the first of the oases on the desert loop. It seems Kharga only has about 3 hotels, and all of them look like they haven’t been stayed in for years. Dust has settled, plaster is coming off the walls, no signs of life bar the caretakers who appear after some time spent looking for them, and then ask a price far higher than the room is worth. Anyway, we settled for one of these hotels for the night (didn’t have a choice really) and went out for a local meal in town, followed by our police convoy that had now joined us.  This has happened to us previously in the Western Desert – you have to report to the tourism police and then they seem to accompany everywhere you go – last year they even slept in their cars next to where we were bushcamping for the night.

Anyway, an early start the next day took us on through Dakla Oasis, with a stop to explore the medi-evil mud settlement in Al-Qasr (and a longer stop queuing for fuel, which Egypt seems to be short of ‘since the revolution’), and then through Farafra Oasis and into the White Desert. Finding where our Bedouin-type camp had been set up for us, behind all the rock formations in the White Desert, without phone signal, proved a bit difficult, but we got there, arriving at sunset to a great fire and a wonderful set-up under the stars. A brightly decorated enclosure, with carpets, mattresses, blankets and 1 long low table to dine around – it was magical, and worth the 2 long days to get there. And great to be able to sleep out under the stars.

The White Desert is full of interesting mushroom-type rock formations, great for exploring, climbing and experimenting with photos as the colours and light change. After the White Desert comes the Black Desert, less impressive but the rocks covering the sand really are black.

For our last night in the Western Desert, we were at Eden Garden Camp near Bawiti. It has a hot spring right on it’s doorstep, with a warm (if orange) swimming pool, hot showers, flushing toilets, even toilet paper (these things that make all the difference!), and 2 lovely areas to chill in – an open area with shade and cushions and low tables for the day, and an enclosed carpeted tent with a fire place in the middle for the evening. Our host, Talaat, who had also arranged our camp in the White Desert, laid out a wonderful spread for us and organised live Bedouin music as the entertainment for the evening. A great night with dancing, shishas, and an attempt at waking up Jonny on his birthday by barging into his room at midnight, only to find that he’d called our bluff and wasn’t there! Thanks to Talaat and his team for the wonderful camps and warm hospitality.

And so, on day 139, we headed for Cairo, and as we entered the chaos and traffic of Cairo, first we glimpsed the pyramids, the next landmark was Athena outside our hotel, and then Rogan (and yes, it’s getting cheesy and sentimental).

Cape Town to Cairo complete.

Farewell from Rogan... 

OK, so you've all read what the rest of the group has been up to moving onto up through Luxor and out into the Western Desert before arriving in Cairo.  My end of things saw a lot of waiting around in Aswan constantly finding out updates of low water levels, high winds, holy days and a host of other reasons why the truck would still be just another few days.

Getting very used to walking along the Nile hanging out with Felucca Captains who reminisce about the "old" days when tourists used to find them for a trip to Elephantine Island and the partying on Hotel roof tops to these days when they have to practically pray upon them. Gotta feel sorry for those over here who struggle to make ends meet after the recent revolution has put a huge strain on visitor numbers.

Eventually we find out we can free the trucks from barge captivity on Saturday morning almost 2 weeks since we arrived in Wadi Halfa only 400km away as the crow flies, but unfortunately for travellers there is no road route open for us only for cargo trucks! Head down to the port with local fixer Mohammod and Ollie (one crew from a Dragoman truck also waiting for his truck). Getting the truck in requires: compiling two folders of loads of paperwork relating to Egyptian number plates, driving licences, customs taxes, insurance etc and takes almost a whole day. 

Eventually we are allowed to get Athena off the barge so we head down to start getting stuck in literally. With a bit of towing to get the Drago truck back up after grounding out the rear end we were on terra firma and in Egypt!!

A few more hours tinkering with the truck thanks to Athena getting bogged in deep mud in the loading process (due to lower water levels) and getting towed out by the Drago truck before reloading on a proper jetty! The result was front brake drums full of mud and stones resulting in some awful noises as I drove her into the customs area. So a few hours wiping off wheels and cleaning it all up and a bit of grease here and there saw us with new Egyptian plates in our hands to hang front and rear. Done sorted and we're allowed to escape the port and hit the road, feels good to get rolling again after so long hanging around, Ollie and I head north and stop over night in Luxor. 

The next day sees an early start delayed by Ollie's truck refusing to start so, unwinding the hand brake and more towing and we swing out of town and head through some amazing desert scenery on our way up the Red Sea highway towards Cairo. 

The first night saw us queueing for fuel for a hour or so as there is a massive shortage in the country at the moment with all fuel stations either totally closed or with large queues snaking down the road; surprising for a country that produces a fair amount of oil and surrounded by neighbours who supply the world.  Motel for the night as camping on side of the road wasn't too tempting with no where to shelter from the crazy winds, no wonder as far as the eye could see are wind turbines; so a night in the not so fancy Sahara Motel for us.

An early morning start after a quick but very windy oil change on Athena and another tow start for Ollie saw us wind our last 300km or so into Cairo just after midday. A bit of dancing and excited cheering behind the wheel from us as we passed the final toll gate welcoming us to the city. 

Cairo for those who don't know is home to the most frantic horn bashing drivers you can ever experience. A city with a population that swells to almost 25 million during the day where 5 lane roads mean 8 abreast where anything goes, amazing that you don't see more crashes although even the shiniest Mercs have dings and scrapes upon closer inspection.

Its a good feeling to finally park up at the hotel, its been a long drive from Cape Town but it definitely beats the alternative of a 6 hour flight! There have been long days and short days, rain, sun, sand and mud, even no roads at times but Athena has done us all proud once again. As our trip t-shirts say on the sleeve (courtesy of Mike) Athena's Last Dance; don't know much about dance moves myself but lets just say we've waltzed into Cairo the Odyssey way. 

Even beat the rest of the group who arrived later in the afternoon after their chilled out time living the bedouin life style camping out in the dunes.

Good to kick back in a really nice hotel with a roof top view of the pyramids complete with a swimming pool in a boat (maybe a tad chilly for a dip). To group headed out the next day to explore the pyramids and dig deep into Egyptian history and get up close and personal with Mummies in the Museum. Our final night we headed down town to a excellent Lebanese Restaurant where we shared a great last night.

These trips do sound long when you think that for 5 months you'll all be stuck together bumping along in the back of a truck but when you finally reach that destination you've been aiming for you think what happened? That was quick! You reach the halfway mark and time just starts accelerating, and then bang, you are in Cairo. But when you look back on everything that we have seen, done, eaten and the places we have had the privilege to bush camp, at the people who we've met along the way, you think yeah actually we've done a hell of a lot.

I've rambled on enough now and most have probably stopped reading, but anyhow hope you've all enjoyed the journey as much as we have! 

Farewell from Athena...

The facts:

15 Countries 

140 days

21,437 km

One final note important to some of those in the truck. Just need a mention for a person who has not once upgraded to a bed even when free of charge, who has roughed it in his tent the whole time (not even moved the tent under a shelter in strong rain). Martin wins the award for toughest camper followed by Graham.  Well done guys.