Is it a truck... is it a train?

Hey folks just a quick update on where we are and where we've been the last week or so. Having left the highlands and mountains of Ethiopia behind us we now cruised along and up through Khartoum where we stopped off for a couple of days camping on the edge of the Blue Nile. Everyone had a chance to explore the souks across the river in the Ondurman area where all manner of items were purchased from huge metal trays by Di and Jonny to surf down the sand dunes on, to swords, old Sudanese coins and lots of kaftans for the ladies. We also got the group registered at the Aliens department another of the hurdles we jump through in Sudan. 

Passports back in our possession and we headed further north for some more stunning bushcamps out in the desert as we wind our way up following the East Nile to start before veering north towards Wadi Halfa or as Abby still calls it, Wadi Halfy.

Our first detour from the tar was to head off down the sandy tracks towards the temples of Naqa and Musawwarat dating back to 270AD, actually still in very good condition these two sites offer people a unique opportunity to experience these sites out in the sticks. Sand piling up on the side of the walls where the desert winds blow, its great - it's nothing like turning up in a tour bus filing out through ticket gates, we even had to get the spades down from the roof to dig and sand mat our way across a very sandy dried up river bed washed through by last seasons rains.

 A quick stop the next day in Shendi, now a small market town and a good spot to stock up on ice and essentials like soft drinks to keep a thirsty truck moving along. You wouldn't know it but Shendi once used to be the biggest market town in Sudan before Khartoum took over the mantle, its biggest trade being in slaves heading out towards the coastal port of Suakin and the onto Jeddah and Cairo, they even had three days trial and return policies.

Just a little further up the road our next ancient historical site all to ourselves perched up high on the sand dunes is Meroe. An burial site that houses over 100 tombs of Kushite Kings and Nobles dating back to 800 BC influenced heavily by the Egyptians style of building.  These pyramids shaped tombs are a sight to behold, we bush camped  tucked up close to the sand dunes for some wind protection, a chance for the "sand trays" to get used. Unfortunately the trays did not hold the promise we thought they would, you guys probably aren't surprised! 

Being so close to the pyramids folks were able to sneak in over the dunes to snap an amazing sunset over the ruins, special stuff.

Our path further north presented two options, option 1 a tar road that follows the course of the Nile smoothly all the way to the ferry at Wadi Halfa or option 2, tar for half the way and then a route following the train tracks out and across the sands of the great Nubian desert. After chatting with the group we chose option 2, what a hard core bunch hey even after 18 weeks on the road!

So we drove north to Abu Hamed the next day where we stocked up on water and snacks the perfect partner for a desert crossing. That night we passed our first station no.10 (will be doing the count down to 1) we heading out to find a sweet bushcamp tucked up behind some massive rocks.  A windy night was had by all as the rocks failed to offer protections they appeared to offer! 

We journeyed further into the desert passing station 9/10 (they do half stations over here) before the winds picked up again and slowed down progress a bit as visibility reduced, luckily not for long until we had stunning blue skies again and jaw dropping desert scenery to keep us occupied as we ticked stations off our list. 

By the end of our first day we'd covered over 230km of sand following the train tracks and telegraph poles that appear seemingly never ending as they wind their way off into the distance. 

We'd passed and survived the stint between station 4 and 5 that was rumoured to be the deepest sandiest section, with a combination of skill and luck (I say skill others argue against that); we did make an impressive sprint across thickening sand to make it back and up onto the tracks for a km or so. But Athena the train saw us all the way into another brilliant bush camp, surprisingly without big rocks this time hardly any wind so following a mad hatters party and egg baps the next morning we were on our way heading in a relaxed fashions for the last 3 stations and lunch time arrival in Wadi Halfa.

But before we hit town a stop at station 2 rewarded us with the opportunity to revive a handcar train thingy (please look up official names on internet) that had been left upside down on the sand. The guys got it back onto its wheels and we had a great time pretending to be in wild west movies chased by indians or something gallivanting up and down the tracks.  Jonny and Martin once back on the truck regret not rolling the last 47km into town riding it, but does give them an excuse for a return trip one day!

The next few days were spend hanging around town waiting for the once a week passenger ferry to turn up and our barge to take Athena northwards and onto the final country of our trip Egypt. Everyone checked into our luxury hotel for a good wash after the run of bush camps, luxury in here means mud brick building  with string beds and a bucket shower. These simple amenities though are very welcome so African Tans down the drain and we all got a chance to eat some good local food. Falafals, fresh bread, fool, mystery meat and also with an assortment of hot sauces good simple food and cheap!

Sudan is always described to people in guide books and by others on the road as the friendliest country in Africa and once again it doesn't disappoint . When leaving Ethiopia you have to remind yourself that if someone here greets you and asks you how you are and where you're from it won't be followed with "give me money", but instead would you like some tea, come and meet my family. Its a brilliant place with the warmest folk whether they can speak English or not and vice versa our lack of Arabic you will always feel very privileged and welcome to travel through their country.  Always a sad country to leave, but there is always a flip side and this time the word on some people's lips (no names - Martin), is BEER!!! Not far off now after just under two weeks.

Waiting over in town and time to hurry up and wait down at the port for immigration and customs before staking our claims to deck space for a night under the stars as we cross Lake Nasser. A few hours into the trip we are treated to the spectacular sight of Abu Simbel illuminated, it feels just for us! Will have to pop back down on by bus to get a closer look in the coming days.

After docking in Aswan, clearing the border formalities we're all set up in a hotel for a few nights, giving people time to explore the local area before the group loads onto a couple of fellucas for an over night jaunt up the Nile towards Luxor. Where hopefully I'll drive up to in a few days once we get the truck across from Sudan, Inshallah. (If Allah wills it) as everyone keeps telling us.

Then once we get our wheels back we'll be rolling out into the Western Desert for our final bush camping under the stars before we arrive in Africa's most hectic city where the hooting and tooting of car horns never ceases, Cairo!